“The Old Cotton Road” by Guy Martin
The Mooresville Road, North Alabama
The narrative of the South can most clearly be read in its wreckage—the black iron Corinthian capitals atop the stone columns looming over Windsor Plantation outside Port Gibson, Mississippi; Shiloh in 1862; Vicksburg in 1863; Atlanta in 1864; the Gulf Coast after a hurricane in just about any era. In fact, let’s throw it down: What’s good, or pretty, or true about the South that hasn’t been wrecked?
The Mooresville Road, a twenty-six-mile stretch of two-lane county blacktop running due north from Mooresville, Alabama—through the cotton town of Belle Mina to the hill town of Ardmore—offers a lexicon of Southern wreckage. The great antebellum houses along this road are, mostly, intact. What a close reader of country roads will discern, however, are the last surviving shoots of the oldest economy in the South, that of cotton, and how they’ve been decimated in the last 150 years. In the last century Limestone County, one of Alabama’s smallest in area, produced more cotton than any other county in the state. The southernmost ten miles of the Mooresville Road run through the sections close to the Tennessee River that had just the right purple-red dirt to make this happen. In 1960, there were nine cotton gins in Limestone County. Now there’s one cooperative gin left in Belle Mina, eight hundred yards north of Governor Thomas Bibb’s landmark 1829 house.
But the road. It’s best to set out from Mooresville, the southern terminus. The entire town, founded in 1818, is on the National Register of Historic Places. The clapboard post office, half of which once doubled as the tavern, still uses antebellum post boxes for its customers. A mile north of Mooresville, the first major house on the left is the Bibb mansion, with its trademark four-column veranda. The next big house, diagonally across the road from the Bibbs’, is Woodside, vintage 1845, owned by the Frazier family. Woodside sits elegantly wrapped in cotton fields, a grand dame in a ball gown. Fifty yards north of Woodside’s entrance is Belle Mina proper. Ten of Belle Mina’s buildings, including a collapsing part of the old rail depot, are on the National Register as well.
Two miles north of Belle Mina, Old Highway 20 leads to the right. If it’s near lunch, take this two-mile detour to the Greenbrier Restaurant for Alabama’s best hickory-smoked pork. The Greenbrier gin, across the road from the restaurant, is shut, and for sale.
Returning to the Mooresville Road, take a right and keep north. The crossroads of Peets Corner, formerly a smithy for the horses from the farms, is now a convenience store. Two miles beyond that, at the French’s Mill crossroads at Highway 72, was another big gin, now closed. North of French’s Mill, the dirt changes from “red” to “gray”—in other words, it becomes inhospitable to cotton—and the country gets hillier. You’ll pass subdivisions brought on by NASA’s housing demand in Huntsville, twenty miles away. These subdivisions are the footprint of the twentieth- and twenty-first-century economies that destroyed the agrarian economy of the nineteenth.
Seven miles north of these houses, deep in the hills, lies the schizophrenic village of Ardmore, split by the state line. Ardmore, Tennessee, was for decades wet, while Ardmore, Alabama, was dry. This made it a nasty little place that never belonged to either state but that can perhaps best be summed up in the poetry of the name of one of its most infamous cut-n-shoot roadhouses, now, also, sadly shuttered. The bar was called the Bloody Bucket.
Sam Frazier, Woodside’s lord and the Mooresville Road’s reigning philosopher-king, sits by his fireplace in his study over a dram of smooth Irish whisky.
“I’m thinking,” he says, “that this end of the road, meaning Mooresville and Belle Mina, is heaven. I would argue that Woodside, itself, is heaven, though other people might disagree. At the other end of the road, there’s Ardmore. That’s hell. In between the two extremes, I’d say, lie representations of all that man hath wrought.”
What that means is, we should drive the Mooresville Road while the crop dusters still dive-bomb those few cotton fields where there is still some of that old crop to dust.
Credits: Garden & Gun, Southern Roads by Guy Martin; Photo by Chris Granger




